Bacalao con Tomate
Salted Cod with Tomato - a classic Spanish dish you can create with a little cod, salt and all those summer tomatoes.
For all the green thumbs out there who have won the Great Snail War, the end of summer tomato harvest has left you with an abundant bounty and there are only so many friends and family members you can foist them on, right?
So, what to do with all those tomatoes?
This week I’d like to share a Spanish classic that elevates the humble cod to Michelin status. It combines the firm flaky white meat of salted cod with the sweet tartness of tomatoes and the smoky earthy flavours of smoked paprika.
Salted cod? I hear you say. That expensive and difficult-to-find-outside-Scandinavia-and-the-Mediterranean fish? Yes and no. I have a secret to reveal.
When I thought of writing up this recipe (to coincide with the Tomatina festival – sorry it’s late), I went online to see if I could get my hands on some Spanish salted bacalao, but it was beyond my budget. However, it occurred to me that if it’s just cod in salt, is it something I could do myself?
After a quick search, I learned that many people salt their own cod and it’s super easy to do. Rather than spend £18 plus shipping costs for a bit of fish online (pardon the pun), I headed to my local Sainsbury’s to pick up 360g of frozen skinless and boneless cod fillets for £4 (US$5/AU$7.80/€4.60).
Before the purists scream at the heresy of it all, it may not level up to the supremacy of Spanish bacalao, but it’s a damn good substitute. The trick is to defrost, then drain and dry well before salting. Use good quality sea salt and you will be surprised at the excellent results, certainly better than defrosting and using fresh, though of course for those who have no desire to go through the salting process, fresh is a viable option.
So why salt it?
Dried and salted meat products are the oldest methods of preservation in the world. Salt was a cheap, fast, easy way to preserve freshly caught fish which could then be transported long distances. Today, it’s no longer necessary to preserve fish in this way, but the recipes that were developed during that time are just as popular as ever.
The salt gives cod a texture and flavour that is absent in the fresh fish, and Spain and Portugal are especially famous for the delicious variety of salted bacalao dishes they have invented over the centuries. In fact, in Portugal it is said there is a different cod dish for every day of the year.
I’ve tried many salted cod recipes in Spain, from the delectable tapas of crispy fritters in Casa Revuelta to the creamy croquettes of Casa Labra, Madrid, and the many finger-licking sauce dishes that perfectly compliment the fish’s flavour and texture. Even my son, who is not a fan of fish, enjoys a well-made cod dish.
The famous Bacalao al Pil-pil and Bacalao a la Vizcaina dishes from the Basque region are certainly worth a write-up, but today I’d like to share a popular creamy tomato salsa that goes really well with salted cod – Bacalao con Tomate.
The recipe calls for roasted red peppers (capsicum) which you can either buy already roasted and jarred or roast yourself. I have chosen to roast them myself and thrown in the tomatoes with them which helps retain the tomato flavours.
NOTE: This recipe calls for a few days’ prior preparation.
To serve 2-4 people.
360g skinless and boneless frozen cod fillets (or fresh)
500g rock salt (you may need a little more)
I whizzed up my rock salt in a blender to make it a little finer. It’s probably not necessary but I think it makes it easier to cover the fish well.
Defrost, rinse and dry the fish
Place a layer of salt in a bowl, place the fish on the salt and then cover the fish entirely with the rest of the salt. It’s important the fish be fully covered.
Cover with a plate or cloth and leave in fridge for 48 hours.
Rinse the fish of all salt and dry it thoroughly.
Wrap in a muslin cloth or sterilised tea towel and leave in fridge for a few days.
Note: wrapped homemade salted cod can last in the fridge for a few weeks.
To desalinate, soak in fresh water for 24-48 hours, being sure to change the water two or three times.
Taste a small piece of the fish to check its saltiness. It should be lightly salty but not leave a salty taste in the mouth.
Drain and dry thoroughly. Set aside.
To make the tomato salsa:
2 red peppers (capsicum)
One large onion
6-8 medium ripe tomatoes
3-4 cloves of garlic
1 tsp smoked paprika, preferably ‘La Chinata’ de la Vera which has a strong smoky flavour.
1 tsp sugar.
Olive oil
White wine (optional)
A little flour (also optional)
A little salt to taste.
Remember the fish will be a little salty so take this into consideration when seasoning the salsa.
On a tray, coat the peppers and tomatoes with a splash of oil and bake in moderate oven till soft.
The tomatoes may take less time, so keep an eye on them. Roasted peppers taste better a little blackened.
Once roasted, let them sit and when the peppers and tomatoes are cool enough to touch, peel off the skins. They should come off easily.
In a frying pan, add a generous dribble of olive oil and sauté the onion and garlic gently.
Chop the peppers and tomatoes into small pieces and add to the onion and garlic.
Add the paprika and sugar.
Add a drop of white wine or water if necessary to avoid the mixture from drying out.
Coat the cod in flour (optional)
Place the cod in the sauce mixture and cook for a minute on one side before flipping over and cooking on the other side.
The frozen fillets tend to be quite thin so don’t need a lot of cooking. If you’re cooking heftier pieces, they may require a little more time on each side.
Season to taste.
Optional: you can blend the mixture to produce a smooth sauce or if you prefer it chunky, leave as is.
Serve with roasted or boiled potatoes, hot chips or salad. Or nuffin! 😊