Classic Tortilla Española
Turning the humble potato - one of America's many culinary gifts to Europe - into the perfect Spanish omelette.
Yesterday I wrote about the America Day festival and the colourful combination of cultures being celebrated in Asturias this month thanks to the many emigrants who decided to make the New World their home. Today I’d like to talk about the culinary renaissance that arose as a result of the discovery of the Americas in the late 15th century.
It’s hard to imagine Spanish cuisine without the potato omelette, the tomato gazpacho, chocolate con churros, or the many dishes based on the red pepper. But before 1492, Europeans had never seen a tomato, or a potato, or many of the other foodstuffs we now associate with the Mediterranean diet. I’m pretty certain turnip pizza wouldn’t have had quite the same impact around the world if the tomato had not come onto the scene.
The Colombian Exchange was responsible for bringing a wide variety of new products to Spain, such as beans, avocadoes, peanuts, blueberries, corn, and potatoes, and was responsible for the population explosion between 1650-1850, especially in Ireland where the population doubled between 1754 and 1845 thanks to the easily grown potato.
In return, Europeans gifted the Americans with beasts of burden, pigs and horses, as well as diseases such as smallpox which wiped out about 90% of the indigenous population. However, sweet revenge came in the form of an addictive plant called tobacco which was taken back to Old World and has since killed many millions of Eurasians and continues to do so.
So, on that light note, let’s return to the kitchen and have a go at the Spanish omelette, which is actually more a frittata than an omelette, and turns the humble potato into the next best thing after fried chips.
Tortilla Española
To make a successful tortilla española, the consistency of the egg is fundamental, as well as a sure steady flipping wrist. You will need the following ingredients:
3 medium sized potatoes
1 large onion (optional but in my opinion necessary as it gives the omelette a slight sweetness that goes perfectly with the potato)
5 large eggs
1 level dessert spoon of salt
A generous amount of olive oil
In a non-stick heavy-based frying pan, place the diced potatoes and onion and cover in olive oil till only just submerged. Make sure it’s not too close to the top of the pan to create spillage when bubbling.
It must be pointed out here that those who are trying to cut down on their calory intake may gasp at the quantity of oil needed in this recipe, however most of the oil is drained off after cooking. An alternative which is lighter on the oil but not as juicy or tasty is to steam the potatoes rather than simmer them in oil.
Boil gently (confit) so the potatoes cook but not fry. Lower the heat if they look to be browning.
In a bowl beat the eggs and the salt. The mixture should taste on the too-salty side because the potatoes will absorb it all.
Once the potatoes are cooked through, you will need a flat wide spatula with holes to scoop the potatoes and onion out of the oil, allowing them to drain a few seconds before adding them to the egg mixture.
Remember you can re-use the oil again for cooking another time.
Mix the potato and onion with the egg. The mixture should be quite eggy. Too dry and you may need to add another egg.
Remove the oil from the pan, leaving about a tablespoon worth to coat the base and sides. Add the egg and potato mixture and cook on a medium heat until the base looks golden in colour and the egg seems to be beginning to set. The surface should still be a little liquidy, but not so much that it will all run off the plate when you turn it over.
Place a large plate over the top of the pan, put one hand flat on the plate and the other on the handle. With a steady unhurried motion, flip the tortilla onto the plate and carefully and swiftly slide the tortilla back into the pan.
Turn up the heat a little to brown the other side more quickly as it won’t need much cooking time. If overcooked the tortilla will become dry.
Once lightly browned on the other side, place another plate on the top and flip the omelette out. Let sit for at least half an hour before cutting.
The tortilla should be soft inside but not runny.
Serve with a side dish of chopped tomato, rock salt, balsamic vinegar, dribble of olive oil and some chopped basil leaves. Oh, and some crusty bread for mopping.