Festival of La Arribada
The day the world suddenly got a lot larger is commemorated every March in the historic town and beaches of Baiona, with re-enactments of Pinzon's arrival and a marvellous medieval market.
Mention Christopher Columbus and everyone immediately thinks of the discovery of the New World, the USA, potatoes, corn and tomatoes, Incas, Aztecs, gold, and probably smallpox, syphilis, colonisation and the transatlantic slave trade.
But there’s a lesser-known figure who was part of the epochal expedition of 1492, and his name is celebrated at an annual festival in a small fishing town situated in the top northwest of Spain.
After seven long months there was still no news about whether Columbus’ voyage had been successful in its endeavour to find a quicker way to Asia. It was not a given that it would be, with many sceptics insisting that he had miscalculated the size of the Earth. Which he had.
But finally, on March 1st 1493, the caravel ship La Pinta, commanded by Martin Alonso Pinzon, sailed into the small fishing port of Baiona, and the world suddenly got a hellavalot larger.
Every first weekend in March, beautiful Baiona, with its population of 12,000, turns back the clock 500 years to the moment it became the first place in Europe to learn the existence of the New World.
With a life-size replica of the caravel, a Royal Medieval Market, and re-enactments of the event, the festival of La Arribada has become one of the most anticipated and exciting festivals of the year. It has been declared a ‘Festival of International Tourist Interest’ in a town anointed the distinctive title of ‘Site of Historic-Artistic Interest’.
Thousands of locals and tourists alike dress in period costume and the town is transformed into the 15th century when knights joust, fencers duel, and jugglers, troubadours, and musicians take to the streets. There are falconry exhibitions, crafts workshops, archery competitions, and more than 400 stalls offering artisanal food, handcrafted goods, and a huge variety of local cuisine such as octopus, empanadas, and barbequed meat in the bars, restaurants, and stalls.
On the first day of the fiesta, twelve gunshots are fired from the medieval ramparts of Monterreal Castle, kicking off a weekend of festivities which includes the historical re-enactment of the arrival of the Pinta caravel.
The caravel arrives at the port at A Ribeira beach followed by the disembarkation of Pinzon and exchanges between the crew and local dignitaries. This is the moment the Old World learns of the new lands across the Atlantic - the moment that changed the course of history for Spain as it launched its trajectory towards becoming the most powerful empire of its time.
Through its exploration and colonisation, Spain established a vast overseas empire which included territories in the Americas, Asia, Africa, and the Pacific that reached its peak during the 16th and 17th centuries. It’s no wonder Baiona takes this re-enactment seriously; it is a significant event that celebrates the country’s legacy of discovery and cultural influence on Europe at the time.
However, Pinzon’s arrival was not without its controversy. The ambitious captain from Andalusia was the oldest son of a wealthy family of seafarers and ship owners. He commanded the Pinta, one of his brothers piloted it, and another commanded the caravel La Niña. Pinzon also had backed Columbus financially and was co-owner of both the Niña and the Pinta, which no doubt explains his later actions.
Columbus expressed doubts of his trustworthiness in the ship's log: "I know that Martín Alonso cannot be trusted. … he wants the rewards and honours of this enterprise for himself. … But I am fully aware that I must use him, for his support is too great among the men.”
It’s unknown whether Pinzon became lost in a storm or intentionally deserted the fleet in order to beat Columbus with the news of the New World. But either way, Pinzon made his way back via a different route, arriving several days before Columbus. Unfortunately for him, he had returned home with a dreaded disease - possibly syphilis – and died shortly after.
So, needless to say, the news of the discovery plays a greater role than the character of Pinzon himself, but once again, historical facts can be blurred a little for the sake of a good story.
The festival is a glimpse into a fascinating time in Spain’s history and history buffs interested in the voyage can make their way to the Floating Museum of the Pinta Caravel in Baiona or the Navigation Museum to learn more about the two worlds – Christian and Indigenous - with examples of the plants and animals that were brought back to Europe, as well as exhibitions of life aboard the caravels. The replica of La Pinta was built in 1993 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the Discovery.