The Day of the Innocents
Drama turned comedy: how the biblical story of the massacre of the innocents became a day of jokes, pranks, satire, and lunacy.
The origins of certain traditions can often get lost as they evolve and transform, but it can be fascinating to trace their beginnings and see how they have become the festivals, rituals, and observances of today. I would say that it is especially so in Spain where ancient paganism and Christian influences have taken on an almost surreal and bizarre transformation, from fiestas involving jumping over newborn babies and being carried alive in coffins, to wine and tomato battles and hurling oneself down a street on a wooden board.
The Day of the Holy Innocents, celebrated every 28th December, is no exception. Spain’s equivalent of April Fool’s Day is the day in which people play practical jokes on each other. Interestingly, it’s also known as the ‘Massacre of the Innocents’ in reference to the biblical story in which Herod, the king of Judea, orders all male children in Bethlehem who are under two years old to be executed.
So, how does the murder of innocent babies turn into a day of jokes and pranks with a history of sending up the church and unbridled lunacy? It is drama turned comedy with part of the answer in the ambiguity of the word “innocents”. It is also likely to trace some of its origins in the saturnalia which was celebrated in Roman times during December when roles were reversed between slaves and masters and people exchanged gag gifts.
The festivals that take place on the Day of the Innocents around Spain have a strong tone of the medieval - a time when performers, minstrels, jesters, fools, and jokers were given a long leash to send up those in power, in particular the church and royalty, making fun of stereotypes and important people. They were the precursors to modern late night TV comedians.
The Jester had the unique privilege of being able to mock without the fear of being punished. They were often protected under the guise of the “fool” or the “mentally defective” (innocent) and were objects of derision, and of course, professional “fools” made good use of this. There were many places around Europe that celebrated the Feast of Fools, crowning a beggar or simpleton ‘king’ for the day in mockery of the lofty status. By the 18th century the job of jesters had largely disappeared in Europe, except in Spain, Russia, and Germany.
Just as we in other countries tend to ignore the day of pranking, (apart from maybe guiltily watching a few victims share their embarrassing moments on social media), most of Spain also ignores the day. However, it’s quite common to find joke items at the Christmas markets such as wigs, fake ink, whoopie cushions, itching powder, etc in many Christmas markets. And then there are the several festivals that echo the long-practiced traditions that have survived the centuries.
Here are a few of the most notable.
Els Enfarinats (The Floured Ones)
This festival takes place in the Valencian town of Ibi, in Alicante, and dates back more than 200 years. The Valencian word ‘enfarinat’ roughly translates to ‘floured’ which is what the town square and the participants end up being after a battle of firecrackers, flour bombs and eggs.
The Enfarinats dress in ragged military clothing and stage a mock coup d’etat of the town under the slogan ‘New Justice’. They hold ironic speeches full of criticism of events that have occurred in the lives of the local politicians, and on the morning of the 28th the Enfarinats prepare to race to the City Hall, where the winner takes power after receiving the symbolic baton representing municipal authority.
At 11am, the Opposition group enters the scene to try to win back power and the flour battle ensues. They ultimately lose and by 2pm they sign an armistice stained in flour and dirt. This is followed by a large lunch in the streets and finally a traditional Valencian dance known as La Dansà. The Valencians are experts in political satire as shown in their colourful Fallas Festival, and the throwing of foodstuffs seems to be a popular form of celebration in much of Spain.
Dia de Los locos
In a similar spirit of political irreverence, another town in Valencia, Jalance, celebrates the 28th December with its Day of the Crazies. This festival seems to date back to the 17th century and involves young people as well as “crazy professionals” hired for the occasion who try to break with the established power for one day by obtaining the mayor’s “rod of command” and “hanging” the local priest.
The party of crazies takes to the streets in colourful clothes, wigs, and painted faces, knocking on doors, climbing on balconies, pulling people out of bars to dance with them, and if you give them money they will do anything you ask them to, especially when there has been a lot of alcohol consumed. Brass bands accompany the party through the streets and the festivities continue well into the night.
Fiesta del Obispillo (Little Bishop)
The Little Bishop Festival dates back to the Middle Ages across several European countries. One of the children from the choir of the cathedral or abbey would be chosen to be bishop on the day of San Nicolas de Bari on the 6th December to be mockingly honoured till the 28th December. Due to its profane nature, it was banned in 1612 in Spain but has since been revived and continues to gain popularity.
Today, a boy is chosen to be bishop for the Day of the Innocents in Burgos, Palencia, Leon, Monserrat, and Murcia where he is dressed in bishops’ clothing including mitre and crosier. The real bishop symbolically resigns and the little bishop rides through the streets on a white horse accompanied by his little peers dressed as priests, blessing onlookers and passing out sweets.
Rather than mocking the Church, today’s Fiesta del Obispillo seems to be a way of involving young people in the ways of the Church, making them aware of its social responsibilities and voicing the petitions created by the children of the city. Here’s a video; it’s in Spanish but it gives an idea..
Dance of the Fools and Dance of the Bear
The Dance of the Fools and the Dance of the Bear are performed every 28th December in the Plaza Real in Fuente Carreteros, Cordoba. The unique tradition goes back to 1765, brought by European settlers who once inhabited the province, and represents the massacre of the innocents by Herod.
The day begins with anise pastries and fritters in the square. The townsfolk gather to watch the first dance, the Dance of the Locos, followed by the second, the Dance of the Bear. The dancers are decked out in a head scarf, white shirt and skirt, red and blue sashes, white leotards, white shoes, and ribbons tied around the legs. They dance to the sound of the castanets in their hands, accompanied by musicians playing the guitar and tambourines.
Finally, the town comes together to partake in the communal Christmas stew.
The Devil of Setiles
In Setiles, Guadalajara, the Day of the Innocents involves all the young people who have come of age (18) during the year. Its origins are unclear, but again shows the irreverence typical of festivals on this day. A “devil” is chosen among the new adults and the others, known as “Los Quintos”, dress in long dark capes and a cloth hat, and spend the night before preparing the next day’s events.
The Quintos are responsible for making the Devil’s wooden sword, and keeping everyone awake on the night of the 24th by playing trumpets and drums throughout the town. They are also likely to get up to mischief by moving flowerpots, blocking peoples’ doors with bricks, etc. If a door has a cat flap, the Quintos will blast their trumpets into the house, making sure to wake up the inhabitants.
The next day, the Devil dresses in yellow pants and jacket, a red and yellow cap with horns, a tail, and a painted goatee. The children of the village chase the Devil and try to ring his bell or pull his tail. The Devil runs after them with his wooden sword to hit them on the butt while the Quintos continue to play pranks and offer anise liqueur and cognac to passers-by.
When it’s time for Mass, the Quintos sit in the front pews in their long capes while the Devil waits outside for the Mass to begin. Once it does, the Devil enters to create a minor disturbance by lighting candles, drinking some of the wine, shuffling the pages in the Bible and generally being a nuisance. Then he retreats to the entrance and waits for the Mass to finish.
Like all good Spanish fiestas, the day ends with food, dance, and song.