š² The Fiestas of Saint George
The Legend of Saint George. World Book Day. Red Roses. Battles with Dragons and Moors. And a Medieval Fair.
Flags can tell us a lot about a country or regionās history if we look close enough. The colours, designs and especially the coat of arms often relate stories of monarchs, battles, legends, important dynasties, treaties, and other historical events.
Take a look at Aragonās flag; as well as the red and yellow bars that symbolise the Crown of Aragon, the regionās coat of arms depicts (among other things) the Cross of Alcoraz ā a war flag of Saint Georgeās Cross on a white background and four Moorsā heads.
I mention this curious detail because itās an example of how inextricably entwined legends are in the history of Spain.
Saint George is celebrated on the 23rd April in many places around Spain. He is the patron saint of the regions of Aragon, Catalunya, Valencia, and the Balearic Islands, the province and city of Caceres, the town of Alcoy in Alicante, and various other towns around the country. He is also patron saint of Venice, Genoa, Portugal, Ethiopia, Moscow, and of course England.
Unrelated Fun Fact: The de-facto UK Union Jack flag is a combination of the cross of St George, the saltire (X-shaped cross) of Scotlandās St Andrew, and the saltire of Irelandās St Patrick. Unfortunately, the Welsh dragon is not included in this estranged family of crosses.
The Legend of Saint George
The legend of Saint George plays an important part in the reconquest during the Middle Ages. Interestingly, the saint predates the legend of ādragon-slayerā by many centuries. George wasnāt a knight and did not rescue a princess from an evil dragon in the Middle Ages. He was apparently a Praetorian Guard of the Roman Army who was decapitated on the 23rd April 303 for refusing to kill Christians and worship the Roman gods.
But, like so many other Spanish legends, his story came to represent the fight between good and evil during the centuries when Christians were struggling to reclaim the peninsular from the Muslims. St George, (along with the āMoor-Slayerā Saint James) is often depicted on a white steed, brandishing a sword and red cross, and vanquishing the infidels.
St George in Aragon
The St George Cross and four Moorsā heads on the Aragon Coat of Arms refer to a real battle that took place in Huesca in 1096 - the Battle of Alcoraz. Pedro I, king of Aragon, was determined to take Huesca from the Muslims, something his father had died trying to do two years earlier.
However, faced with such fierce fighters, his army became discouraged and it looked like all would be lost. That is, until Saint George descended from heaven on his white steed bearing a giant red cross, inspiring the Christians to renew their efforts. The Christians won the battle, George became the patron saint, and the cross was incorporated into the Coat of Arms of Huesca and Aragon.
This event inspired many other armies to adopt the saint as their protector during the crusades, and the fervour even spread to other countries around the continent. By the 12th century, the Templar Knights had claimed the cross of Saint George as their own, and George had somehow become mixed up in a legend with a dragon.
Today, cities and towns all over Aragon celebrate their patron saint with musical and theatrical performances, magic shows, circuses, exhibitions, workshops, sporting events, book stalls, a reading day, photographic competitions, and traditional dances.
St George in Catalunya
If you find yourself arriving in Barcelona on the 23rd April, you may be a little baffled at the plethora of book stalls, Catalan flags, and red roses that crowd the streets, in particular along the Ramblas and Passeig de Gracia. The Diada de Sant Jordi is a public holiday and just happens to coincide with International Book Day ā the date given for the deaths of two great writers in history ā Cervantes and Shakespeare.
As it is also the day of the regionās patron saint, it goes without saying that thereād be some reference to his legend. When George slew the dragon, one of the versions tells of a rosebush that grew out of its blood. Our hero picks a rose and gives it to the rescued princess as a token of his love and devotion. Today it is customary to give gifts of books and roses to friends and loved ones, with over 1.5 million books sold annually in Catalunya alone, and many more roses.
One of Barcelonaās most iconic buildings, the Casa BatllĆ³, built by Antonio Gaudi between 1904-6, is a wonderful representation of the legend of Saint George. Every Saint Georgeās Day the balconies of the Casa BatllĆ³ overflow with thousands of red roses. The house itself is thought to be designed around the image of Georgeās dragon with skull and bone balconies, rib cage arches, a dragon tail staircase, a flower-shaped princess balcony, and a chimney in the shape of a sword with the cross of Saint George piercing the colourful scale-shaped roof tiles that represent the dragonās back.
St George in Tarragona
The town of Montblanc, in Tarragona, goes so far as to claim Saint George killed the dragon there, and since 1987 the festival is celebrated over two weekends either side of 23rd April. There are representations of the legend in an outdoor lights and music show involving more than 200 non-professional actors, a medieval market with more than 100 stalls, a medieval tournament, and a re-enactment of the gift of a rose to the princess.
St George in Caceres
Going by the number of times he divinely intervened in the reconquest, George was a busy saint. The city and province of Caceres in Extremadura claims St George as its patron saint due to his influence in the battle for the city led by the king of Leon, Alfonso IX on 23rd April, 1229.
Every year on the 22nd, the city begins the fiestas with a parade and fight between Moors and Christians, a fight between St George and the dragon which ends with the burning of said dragon, followed the next day by a Mass and procession to the shrine of the Virgin of La MontaƱa. There are fireworks, a bonfire competition, and a hunt for 2 envelopes with cash prizes symbolising golden hens hidden in the historic city centre.
St George in Cantabria
The festivities of ViƩrnoles in Cantabria, kick off with an exhibition of classic cars outside the Civic Centre, followed by a flower contest, live music shows, a free BBQ, regional dances by Los Picayos de ViƩrnoles, a procession and Mass in honour of Saint George, and a pilgrimage.
St George in Alicante
Alcoy in Alicante is rather famous for its Moors and Christians festival that takes place on St Georgeās Day. The town re-enactsā¦yes, you guessed itā¦ the intervention of the saint in the taking of the town in 1276.
The festival begins with the procession of a relic of the saint to the Temple of Santa Maria. This is followed by a procession with the float of George on his steed surrounded by flowers. There is a re-enactment of the gathering of Christians led by James I, followed by the arrival of the Moors led by Al-Azraq ā the besiegers of the town.
Included in the processions are the childrenās parade of mini Moors and Christians, and groups of music bands. Finally, the re-enactment of the Moorish ambassadorās arrival to the castle and his proclamation of the surrender of the town ends in a battle between the Moors and Christian cavalry archers in which the Moors win and take the fort. But not for long because St George comes to make all things right again for Christendom.
So, whether you come for the roses, the costumes, the re-enactments, the books, or simply to get swept up in Spainās natural talent for celebration and drama, April 23rd is a great time to participate in the fun-filled patron saint fiestas that the country does so well. š„³
I didnāt know that about the āscalesā of Casa BatllĆ³ having a dragon connection! So interesting!
Palau de la MĆŗsica Catalana is another one with a Sant Jordi connection I believe, apparently there are over a thousand ārosesā throughout the building in the stained glass, wall mountings etc š¹