Spain loves a party and perhaps nowhere more than Andalusia, Spain’s most southern region. Andalusia comes alive in spring as an abundance of fairs and fiestas burst forth with the warmer weather. There are pilgrimages to shrines and hermitages that celebrate the virgin and saints. Semana Santa is followed by the Seville fair, the May Crosses and Patio Festivals of Cordoba, and the festivals of Christians and Moors.
Then there’s the colourful spectacle of the Horse Fair in Jerez de la Frontera, in the province of Cadiz.
Early every May, Jerez celebrates the pure breed horses that the region is famous for. The classic images we have of women in flamenco dresses, elegant men on horseback, bullfights, Fino sherry, great food, and of course, flamenco dance and music, are brought together in the Fiesta del Caballo.
Declared a ‘Festival of Tourist Interest of Spain’, this week-long fiesta dates back hundreds of years from the time of Alfonso X (The Wise) who reconquered the city in 1264. In commemoration, he granted two annual fairs (one in April and the other in October). Over the centuries the April fair morphed from cattle market to exhibition fair where the horse increasingly took centre stage. Roma gypsies in particular, would bring their horses to the fairs to make some money with performances.
Today, aristocratic sherry families from all over Andalusia, and horse aficionados from all over the world, come to showcase their products and participate in horse shows and competitions. Trainers and breeders show off their beautifully groomed horses and their equestrian skills with dressage and carriage parades.
Everywhere you look is a feast for the eyes; women and men of all ages don the traditional costumes we associate with Andalusia. The women wear the frilled ankle-length dresses with tasselled shawls, flowers in their hair and large earrings. Both male and female horse riders wear short-cropped jackets with flat, broad-brimmed hats. There seems to be no expense spared when it comes to the rich decorations on the horses, carriages, not to mention the clothes which can run into thousands of euros. Simply renting a flamenco dress can set you back more than a hundred euros.
The fair takes place in Gonzalez Hontoria Park, a 52,000 square metre sanded fairground, decked out in arched light decorations and lined with tall palm trees. The 200 casitas, or marquees, offer food and drink to the public and are the perfect place to check out the local sherry and tapas. There are also rows of stalls that sell clothes, sweets, artisanal products, toys and so much more.
For the young and young-at-heart, there are the carnival fun rides – a popular area for kids and where older teens walk around with large plastic cups filled with rebujito (a refreshing drink made from Fino sherry diluted with lemonade, ice and added mint leaves).
Horse culture has always played an important part in the history and traditions of Andalusia, even as far back as Roman times when they were used in the circus races. The Pura Raza Española, (Spanish Pure Breed) has been valued since the 15th century for its elegance, intelligence, and ideal proportions.
The carriage parades display richly decorated English, Hungarian, Russian and Spanish style carriages as they pass under the long rows of light decorations draped over the streets. These elaborate, coloured lights resemble the shawls of delicate lace the women wear. Apparently, there are 1,360,000 lights with a total of 206 archways that come alive at night in a display of dazzling colours.
As the sun goes down, the marquees overflow with partygoers and the sounds of flamenco guitar, song and dance. The smell of freshly fried fish and oxtail stews fills the air and where there’s sherry, there’s someone ready with the expert flick of the venencia (a long stick with small cup attached) splashing sherry into a narrow tulip shaped glass at arm’s length.
Jerez is world famous for its wonderful sherries, and during the feria there are opportunities to sample the many varieties, in particular Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso and Palo Cortado, and participate in sherry tasting tours.
There are few better places to take in the colour, spectacle, sounds, food and drink of Andalusia than the Horse Fair of Jerez. Besides the chance to see these magnificent animals up close, visitors come for the full Andalusian experience, and unlike the Seville Fair, the Horse Fair is open to the public and mostly free. For specific events such as horse shows, races, and bullfights, tickets can be purchased in advance.
This year’s theme is dedicated to the famous flamenco dancer and native of Jerez, Lola Flores, on the centenary of her birth. A display of fireworks to mark the beginning of the fair on the 6th May will simulate flowers in her honour.
Things to note:
The Horse Fair 2023 takes place from the 6th to the 13th May.
On Wednesday 10th from 18.00 to 21.00, attractions will operate without music to accommodate people on the autistic spectrum.
If you are going by car, the council has designated 2500 free parking spaces.
If coming from Seville, the trip takes an hour by train.
If coming from Cadiz, the trip takes half an hour by car.
The Park is a short 20 minute walk from Jerez city centre.