The Miracle Waters of Saint Magi
Giants, big heads, human towers and healing waters make up one of Tarragona's most important festivals.
Once upon a time there was a hermit named Magi who lived in a cave in the sandstone mountains of Brufaganya in present day Tarragona province, Catalonia.
Magi was of a devout disposition and spent his days preaching the word of Jesus Christ to the good folk of nearby villages.
This was a time when the ruling Roman Empire frowned upon such shenanigans, so it sent emissaries to the mountains to arrest the man.
They accused him of being a trickster and a fraud and threw him into a cell with no food to await his death sentence.
Divine intervention, however, ensured Magi could escape and return to Brufaganya. Once again, the soldiers were sent to capture the Christian.
They found the hermit praying fervently in his cave. They dragged him out and told him they would let him live in exchange for some water as they had travelled far and were very thirsty.
Magi placed his cane on the ground from which a spring immediately sprang. The Romans were surprised at its sweetness and purity and drank deeply.
Then they beheaded him.
Before heading back to the city of Tarragona, they took a final swig from the spring, but this time found the water bitter and undrinkable.
This same spring, one of many sources that flow into the River Gaia, is now known for its healing properties and the cure for many a disease. A chapel was built in 1560 on the very spot of his execution which draws pilgrims every August to receive the blessings and cures of the saint.
In fact, water is the central theme to the devotion of Saint Magi whose feast day is on the 19th of August and considered one of the most important festivals in Tarragona.
Every summer between the 12th and 19th, the city of Tarragona puts on a wonderful show of theatre and street performances, traditional activities with dances and costumes, music concerts, and representations of the life of the saint.
The parades consist of gigantes, giants who represent figures in the story of Magi, cabezudos, huge papier mache heads also respresenting key characters, and bastoners, dancers who beat sticks as part of their choreography. A statue of Saint Magi is carried in the procession through the streets to the Portal del Carro (Cart Entrance) chapel.
The most anticipated events are the castells, (human towers) and the arrival of the miraculous water by horses and decorated carts. The carts are accompanied by locals dressed in traditional clothes who have journeyed from the sanctuary of Sant Magi de Bruyganya to the city – an event that has taken place since 1793.
The water is then distributed among the inhabitants of the town to ensure health and wellbeing among all.
The castells are on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage and are quite the spectacle as well as being emblematic of Catalan history and cultural identity. These death-defying live towers are made up of nimble bodies - men on the lower levels and usually women or light men on the higher levels. The tallest castells consist of 10 “floors” of people and are topped off by a child who raises their hand to mark the completion of the tower. Read more about these incredible feats HERE.
A few of the unmissable highlights of the fiesta include:
12/8, 17.30 Meeting of giants and bigheads in Rambla Nova
12/8, 19.45 Dance of the Ball Pla de Sant Magí in Portal del Carro
14/8, 20.00 Dance of the Ball Pla de Sant Magí in Plaça de la Font
15/8, 22.30 Dance Contalles de Sant Magí in Plaça de la Pagesia
16/8, 22.00 Traditional dance in Plaça de la Font
17/8, 18.30 Sant Magí Musical Festival (Ateneu de Tarragona) in Plaça de la Font
18/8, 19.00 Arrival of the water from La Brufaganya in Plaça de la Font
18/8, 19.15 Ascent towards Portal del Carro with Seguici de Sant Magí (Sant Magí retinue) from plaça de la Font
18/8, 20.30 Dance of Giants in Plaça de la Font
18/8, 21.00 Sant Magí street Festival for families (children under 12) in Plaça del Rei
18/8, 23.30 (Sant Magí street Festival) in Plaça del Rei
19/8, 11.00 Solemn Mass of Sant Magí at the Hermitage of Sant Magí, Portal del Carro
19/8, 12.00 Human towers with Xiquets de Tarragona, Jove Xiquets de Tarragona, Xiquets del Serrallo and Castellers de Sant Pere i Sant Pau in Plaça de les Cols
19/8, 19.00 Procession of Sant Magí from Portal del Carro
19/8, 21.00 Sant Magí retinue in full performance in Plaça de la Font
See HERE for a complete program of events: