🍤🥂 The Seville April Fair and a Fried Fish Recipe.
Colourful Seville is the place to be this month as they celebrate the Feria de Abril with the best of Andalusian cuisine. Plus a couple of recipes: fried fish and a sherry cocktail!
As you’ve probably noticed already if you’ve been reading these posts, regional fare plays a huge part in the festivities in Spain, as it no doubt does in most places around the world. The local gastronomy is inextricably woven throughout every celebration, preserving centuries-old traditions.
From the fried sweets of Holy Week and the open-air sizzle of dozens of paellas during the Fallas, to the tomato, wine or egg fights and of course, the harvest festivals of September and October, every dish tells a story of heritage and community.
So, it’s not surprising that it would also take centre stage in Andalusia’s most iconic and highly anticipated festival – the April Fair of Seville, held one or two weeks after Easter.
The Fair takes place at the fairgrounds of Los Remedios neighbourhood in Seville, and what began as a livestock market back in 1846 gradually evolved into the far more festive event of today.
Tourists from all over the country and around the globe come to immerse themselves in the sights, sounds, and flavours of Andalusian culture – the flamenco dances and music, bullfights, the traditional dress, and the high-quality food and drink that has become synonymous with Spanish cuisine.
Little Fish Saturday
The fair officially begins on a Saturday night (13th April 2024) known as ‘sábado del pescaíto’, (little fish Saturday) when 200,000 lights are turned on at the Portada (entrance) and the entire feria site, kicking off the week-long festivities with a dazzling display of resplendence.
Spectacular as the scene may be, the real draw that first night is the fried fish. Little fish Saturday brings the Sevillians and tourists together to the casetas (large tent-like booths) to enjoy a feast of fried fish, glasses of Fino or Manzanilla sherry, beer, or the refreshing rebujito, made by mixing sherry with lemon-lime soda, and topped with ice.
Fried fish is an Andalusian favourite and goes back to when fishermen along the coasts would bring home the fish that were too small to be sold at the markets. They were a cheap meal, quick and easy to prepare, and today are a staple in every bar and restaurant throughout Andalusia.
While small fish such as sardines, whitebait, and anchovies, or chopitos (tiny cuttlefish) and calamari are the most commonly used, larger fish such as dogfish, whiting and mackerel can be chopped up into smaller pieces and fried.
But more of that tasty topic later…
The Casetas
The social hubs of the Fair are the casetas, of which there are more than 1000 occupying an area of around 450,000 square metres. They are arranged along streets named after famous bullfighters, covered with a white canopy with green or red stripes, and decorated with flowery motifs.
While most of the casetas are privately owned, there are some belonging to the city neighbourhoods or political parties that are open to the public. These are open till 3am and don’t require an admission fee but it’s important to make a reservation if you want to enter and participate in the sevillana and rumba dancing, eating, and musical shows. The shows take place in the evenings between 17:00 – 19:00 and later at 23:00 – 1:00.
Feria Fashion
The vibrant colours of the casetas, decorated horses, carriages, and the paper lanterns strung up above the streets, are nothing compared to the ankle-length frilly flamenco dresses worn by the women.
This classic dress has its origins with the peasant gypsies who accompanied the traders in the early livestock fairs, and has become an iconic image of traditional Andalusian fashion, along with the manila shawl, large earrings, and flowers in the hair.
Men’s fashion is a more sombre affair but exudes an air of classic elegance which is sadly lacking in modern attire. Their suits are made up of a short jacket and tight-fitting trousers, finished off with a colourful waistband called a faja, and a flat wide-brimmed hat known as a sombrero cordobés.
Feria Feasts
During the week, food continues to be a central theme and the Seville Fair brings together the best of Andalusian cuisine, from seafood and stews, to cold soups, and an array of appetisers.
The tapas tradition of small portions is a great way to sample a little of everything, sharing amongst friend and relatives potato omelette, croquettes, Iberian ham, cheeses, olives, fried almonds, langoustines and prawns. Gazpacho and salmorejo are popular cold and refreshing soups, while oxtail, chickpea, or pork stews and rice dishes are a heartier main meal served as a late lunch.
Wine and cocktails are usually more common later in the night and if you can make it to the early hours, churros with chocolate are a good start (or finish – depending on your stamina for an all-nighter) to the next morning.
The Horse Parades and Funfair
The paseos de caballos are unique horse and carriage parades held throughout the week and on the first Sunday of the Fair a competition takes place in the Maestranza bullring of the carts and carriages where spectators can admire the dexterity and skills, not to mention the costumes, of the drivers.
A funfair is set up in the Calle del Infierno (Hell Street) near the Feria – so-called for the noise, loud music, and hustle and bustle of the 400 classic amusement park rides and attractions. It’s a family-friendly alternative to all the singing, dancing, eating and drinking going on in the casetas.
For those who are interested, bullfights take place in the Maestranza bullring every evening finishing at 9:30pm. The Fair comes to an end the following Saturday with an awe-inspiring firework display next to the river Guadalquivir.
You need few excuses to visit Seville. It is an absolute gem of a city which makes it a must-visit destination any time of the year with its colourful picturesque streets, historic Moorish architecture, and friendly locals. But if you’re in town during April, be sure to take in the exciting atmosphere of the Seville Fair which epitomises the best of the city’s spirit and culture, and of course – its delectable cuisine.
Pescado Frito/Fried Fish
As I mentioned earlier, fried fish is a firm favourite, not only in the region of Andalusia, but in many other regions around Spain, especially where fresh seafood is easily available.
There is a long tradition of fried fish in the Mediterranean. The Sephardic Jews (Jews from Spain and Portugal) deep fried cod in oil for a Saturday lunch after the synagogue services. They may have even been the ones to bring the tradition to England in the 1600s, inspiring the famous British “fish and chips”.
The secret to the perfect Andalusian pescaito is in the simple ingredients of fresh fish, flour, salt and pepper, and clean olive oil. Served hot with a side of lemon and a cold glass of beer, sherry, or rebujito is so good, I thought I must include the recipe here.
Small fish such as whitebait, anchovies, sardines, red mullet, or larger white fish cut into small pieces. Prawns and calamari are also great.
White all-purpose flour
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Lemon wedges
Season the flour well with generous amounts of salt and pepper.
Clean and gut the fish, leaving on the head and tails (or not).
Pat the fish with paper towels till dry.
Coat the fish in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan to around 180-190°C (350-375°F). The oil must be hot but not smoking.
Once the oil has reached temperature, add the fish carefully and fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side. (Or if you have enough oil, the fish can be immersed.)
Remove the fish and let drain on paper towels.
Serve with lemon wedges and a glass of rebujito.
Rebujito
300ml (1 1/4 cups) dry sherry such as Fino or Manzanillo
600ml (2 1/2 cups) lemon soda or lemonade
Ice cubes
Peppermint leaves
In a cold glass add the sherry, soda and ice cubes. Garnish with a handful (or to taste) of peppermint leaves.